REVIEW: GIRAFFE LODGE, PORT LYMPNE

Our Bucket-List Stay Among Giraffes and Zebras in the Kentish Savannah

A tower of giraffes amble past the sun dappled entrance of our luxury safari tent, while two haughty zebras push past wildebeest and a caramel sea of deer, for a dip in the watering hole beneath our balcony.

I’m watching this extraordinary scene unfold from the edge of our comfy bed, struggling to believe that we’re not on an exotic, Kenyan safari and are in fact, just 90 minutes from London at Port Lympne Hotel and Reserve in Kent. 

This remarkable park is set within 600 acres of English countryside, which is home to more than 900 animals and over 75 species, and its prime purpose is to save and repopulate endangered species. 

We’re staying in one of eight, luxurious safari tents, pitched at the highest point of The African Experience, with unparalleled views of the Kentish savannah, and the sun setting and rising over its exotic inhabitants.

On arrival, we head to the bush-style lodge, where khaki-clad staff greet us and take us on an off-road African Safari Experience, while Charlie - our charismatic host for the stay - provides fascinating commentary about the giraffes, rhino, zebra and wildebeest roaming freely across the plain.

We leave our bags at our cosy lodge - a spacious safari tent, with fluffy robes and slippers, Molton Brown toiletries, cream carpeting, ensuite bathroom with shower, Wifi, and a balcony with jaw-dropping views across the grassy plains, to the English Channel and beyond.

Charlie leads us past the neighbour behind our tent - Kasungu the rhino, who barrels around the grasses like an overgrown puppy - and to the cosy, wooden Lapa bar and restaurant, where our welcome cocktails are waiting.

That is not the only treat awaiting us - from the viewing platform outside, four beautiful giraffes are just beneath us, lazily chewing their supper, while watching us sipping our drinks, as the sun beats down and the dreamy tranquility is broken only by the occasional burst of birdsong, or the low roar of lions in the distance. It is pure magic.

A big part of the experience is the intimate, African-inspired dinner, which takes place in Lapa. It’s cooked by their excellent resident chef on an enormous, open fire pit in the heart of the restaurant for the lucky residents of the eight safari tents.

On arrival, grilled flatbreads are brought to our tables, to sweep up creamy bowls of baba ghanoush and red pepper hummus. While we eat, a nosy giraffe peers in through the window, before revisiting his own dinner.

We’re then invited to fill our plates with the Braai feast which heaves around the mouth of the fire pit.

There is a moreish potjiekos lamb stew, with apricots and chickpeas; great, tender hunks of sizzling chicken breasts in coriander, red onion and chimichurri dressing; boerwors sausage; and wonderfully tender and flaky seabass fillets, wrapped in banana leaf, with masala sauce.

These are accompanied by sides including excellent roasted beetroot with crunchy kale and pesto; grilled greens with tahini; mixed bean and coconut stew, and pilaf rice.

It’s all so delicious and romantic, with the smells of the food and wood fire inside the cosy space and the evening summer sun creeping across the Savannah outside. So we sit contentedly, drinking wine and eating an alarming amount, with zero regrets.

Luckily, our tent is a few steps away, to rest our full tums on our deck, wrapped in blankets to enjoy the views in the cool, evening air, as the animals settle down for the night.

The following morning, we wake to the gorgeous, soft brays and snorts of Chapman Zebras just beyond our canvas walls. It’s feeding time for both two and four legged beasts. As we follow the scent of the bacon-sizzling fire pit in Lapa, we are met by the extraordinary sight of the African Experience’s residents filling the plain outside, to eat their own breakfasts.

The park ranger is scattering feed from his truck, tailed by a seemingly never-ending succession of deer, greedy zebras, wildebeest, antelope and the occasional ostrich. In the distance, the sleepy giraffes are slowly making their way across the plain from their giraffe house.

The jolly, Italian breakfast chef cheerily greets us with a “Ciao Bella” from behind the fire pit, where he’s sizzling a giant pan of eggs over the flickering flames.

After setting a steaming pot of coffee down on our table, he welcomes us to the pit, where big pots of bacon, sausages, mushrooms, beans, eggs and tomatoes await us. At the back of the room, a long table is set with beautifully presented fresh fruit, cereal, toast and yoghurt.

We soak up the end of our experience, watching the animals from our deck, before jumping back on the safari truck for a final glimpse of the animals, back to the reserve, which we have access to for the rest of the day.

We pass too many wonderful animals to name, from water buffalo, black rhinos, wolves, ostrich and even Przewalski’s horses - the breed so wild that even Ghengis Khan couldn’t tame them.

As Charlie tells us, this entire species of horse was brought back from the brink of extinction, when just NINE were found in a private collection after it was thought the last one in the world had died. Now, there are over 1,500 in the world, and Port Lympne has sent its own horses to China to help with the repopulation efforts.

Giraffe Lodge is just one of the many extraordinary accommodation options, which also includes the Lion Lodge - bathing in luxury with a lion’s nose pressed against the window - Treehouse Hotel, Rhino Lodge, Bear Lodge, Wolf Lodge, Hog Deer Creek, Leopard Creek and an assortment of futuristic bubbles, forest hideaways and glamping experiences.

It’s the closest you can get to a Kenyan safari without jumping on a plane, as exotic animals run wild and free around us and we discover entertaining and sometimes heartbreaking information about the animals and their reasons for being at the heart of a conservation drive.

From the safari through to the bucket-list overnight stays and the beautiful mansion house at the centre of it all, it’s clear that although we have felt like the kings of this jungle, it's the animals that come first.

Port Lympne Hotel and Reserve, Aldington Rd, Lympne, Hythe CT21 4LR.

Giraffe Lodge prices from £599/night for up to 2 people. Stay includes welcome drink, Braii dining experience, breakfast, two private safari tours and entrance to Port Lympne and its sister park, Howletts Wild Animal Park

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