REVIEW: PARK CHINOIS, MAYFAIR

1 day ago
2 min read

Opulent, theatrical interiors and Michelin Guide dining for just £29

By night, Park Chinois is Mayfair's opulent and theatrical ,1930s Shanghai-inspired restaurant, serving up Michelin Guide-approved Chinese dishes and expertly crafted cocktails to the well-heeled.

By day, it is all of the above, as well as being home to one of London’s best value fine dining experiences.

We escape soggy Berkeley Street one rainy lunchtime, when the charming doorman welcomes us into this glamorous, David Lynchian world of scarlet curtains, roaring fires, golden swan-shaped taps, and lavish ruby, jade and azure interiors.

Jacques Garcia’s sexy aesthetic is the ultimate aphrodisiac. As we settle into our decadent surroundings, we’re alarmed by the price on our set lunch menu - £29 per person for two entrées and a main course, with complimentary sweetcorn soup and jasmine rice.

The king prawns with spicy almonds are juicy and perfectly crisped with delicate heat; the salt and pepper squid is beautifully paired with papaya and cashew nuts; the bang bang chicken is sharp and refreshing, and we can see why their crispy duck rolls are so famous.

My highlight is their sticky, sweet and meaty grilled black cod, with umami-rich, shacha sauce.

My husband opts for their signature, Chilean wagyu bavette - rich and tender meat in a moreish, ginger sauce. This is washed down with a soft and gently spiced Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Afterwards, we sample the desserts, not included in the set menu. The friendly waiter explains that the crème brûlée with matcha ice cream is a good sharing option.

I see his point, when the swimming pool sized pudding arrives, with buttery sesame crunch pieces. Few things are as satisfying as cracking through the lid of a perfect brûlée, and into its silky insides.

This is so light, creamy and delicious, that I am horrified to discover I have drained the sugary pool without even breaking a sweat.

My partner opts for their trio of chocolate custard buns. These are a revelation - crispy on the outside, springy and dense inside, with warm, milk chocolate centres, which ooze out sexily, as we sink in our forks.

Sexy, opulent, theatrical, delicious… and £29. We must be in 1930s Shanghai, because this couldn’t possibly be the heart of Mayfair in 2026.

Park Chinois, 17 Berkeley St, London W1J 8EA. The set lunch menu runs weekdays from 12 - 3.30pm for £29/pp