REVIEW: RIVIERA, MAYFAIR

AG
1 day ago
2 min read

A delicious slice of the Côte d’Azur in the heart of London

We glide up an escalator, flanked by golden textiles, statement lighting and Picassos, away from wintry Mayfair and into the glamorous Côte d’Azur of Riviera.

Perched above St James’s, this grand, second floor restaurant is bathed in golden sunlight from the panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows, with an achingly chic, marble-topped bar, open kitchen and the elegant, sandy, azure and blue interiors of the romantic French coast.

It’s a powerful first impression, and as the equally beautiful waitress, Gayu, leads us to our seats and brings over two generous flutes of Cremant d`Alsace, expectations are high.

She explains that the menu is designed with hearty portions, to be shared.

We start with their signature Josper Caesar Salad, a giant, crunchy boat of iceberg, charred to perfection and stuffed with chicken and garlic croutons, with a dreamy, creamy sauce and parmesan shavings.

Gayu passionately recommends their famous Parmesan Bucatini for the next course, and we are so pleased she does.

She reappears beside our table, with a giant wheel of parmesan, in which she tosses our bucatini. This rich, creamy and theatrical dish is a highlight of their menu and transports us straight to relaxed, sun-kissed lunches on La Croisette.

It’s so good, we make noises ill-befitting such refined surroundings, as they bring over additional sharing dishes, which include their show-stopping, meaty sea bass.

Bathed in a beautiful sauce, studded with capers, roasted tomatoes, olives and chives, our forks fight over the last, juicy flakes.

The accompanying fries (of the very French variety) and side salad are also excellent.

Famed for their cocktails, it would be unacceptable to leave without trying one. We can heartily recommend the Peach Caviar - fresh, fruity and creamy gorgeousness, with peach and vanilla liquor, vodka vanilla, double cream foam, lemon and apricot soda.

Gayu removes the problem of choosing the best dessert, by bringing us their signature Riviera Tarte Tatin - and it might be one of the best desserts I’ve had.

The classic upside-down caramelised apple tart is the dessert to have in the South of France, and this iteration is heavenly.

Our forks crack through a caramelised sugar crust and layers of buttery pastry, sticky caramel and apple - conversation stops as we eat.

London is drizzly and the world is on fire, but there's magic at the top of that escalator in this decadent slice of the Côte d’Azur, where the sun always shines, the lunches are long and delicious, and worries melt away with each mouthful of the Mediterranean.

Riviera, 23 St James's St, London SW1A 1HA